Muniellos is a storybook forest: centuries-old oaks draped in moss, almost permanent mist and a sense of time standing still that you will not find in any other forest on the peninsula. It is also prime bear country: the Fuentes del Narcea, Degaña and Ibias Biosphere Reserve holds one of the two great Cantabrian brown bear populations.
Access is deliberately kept very limited: entering Muniellos is a privilege you apply for in advance, and that is what makes the visit an unforgettable experience.
How to get the permit for Muniellos
Access to the Muniellos Integral Nature Reserve is free but restricted to a daily quota of visitors. The permit is requested through the electronic register or at the offices of the Principality of Asturias, and it is worth applying weeks — in summer, even months — in advance.
The classic route climbs from the village of Oballo to the Muniellos lake and returns along the same path: around five hours between closed forest and high meadows. The silence and half-light of the oakwood are the soundtrack.
The bear in Fuentes del Narcea
The Cangas del Narcea area, with its Degaña and Ibias ranges, is home to sows with cubs and to males that come down to the chestnut groves in autumn. Watching is done from viewpoints and country roads at dawn, almost always with a guide.
The town of Cangas del Narcea and its surroundings also offer a surprisingly rich monumental heritage — the Monastery of Corias is one of the great monasteries of Spain — that rounds off any escape.
Surroundings and accommodation
The area has rural cottages and small hotels in Cangas del Narcea, Ibias and Degaña. It is a quiet tourism destination, perfect for combining forest, gastronomy (the cocido stew and the wines of the Cangas DO) and wildlife watching.